Expeditions to Mount Logan

The Logan Massif. The biggest chunk of rock, ice and snow in the world. Protected by a sea of glaciers and some fantastically unpredictable weather. Mostly I have enjoyed this mountain by wasting endless hours at the Icefield Discovery camp, sitting in a deck chair, sipping gin and tonics, and gazing at the many facets of the north face. Finally I decided to go for the summit.

Fortunately, I will have to go again. My team pulled off a great expedition in fine style via the King Trench on Logan, spent six days at about 5300m on the Logan Plateau waiting for favorable conditions for a little foray to the top, which didn’t happen, and then enjoyed an epic descent back to the Quintina Sella glacier.

Here are a few items that will help you plan an enjoyable expedition to this part of the world. There are many routes on Logan, most beyond my skill level, so I will leave those route descriptions for the many talented climbers that have actually accomplished them.

Mount Logan - King Trench